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Meet this James Beard Award-winning Portland chef's trail-blazing new Vietnamese bakery (review)

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  Published in Humor and Quirks on Thursday, October 9th 2025 at 15:06 GMT by Oregonian
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Portland’s Berlu Bakery: A Fine‑Dining Take on Modern Vietnamese Pastries

In a city that prides itself on culinary experimentation, Portland’s newest pastry haven—Berlu Bakery—has taken the concept of Vietnamese desserts and elevated it to a new, sophisticated level. Nestled on a quiet side street in the Pearl District, Berlu’s sleek storefront and airy interior hint at the indulgent, high‑craftsmanship experience that awaits inside. According to the article on The Oregonian (“Portland’s Berlu Bakery: Modern Vietnamese Pastries with a Fine‑Dining Pedigree”), the bakery is the brainchild of Chef‑Pastry Chef Linh Nguyen, a Vietnamese‑American culinary artist who spent two decades working in Michelin‑star kitchens in France before returning to her homeland to hone her pastry craft.

A Fusion of Tradition and Modernity

Berlu Bakery’s menu is a curated collection of Vietnamese pastries that blends traditional techniques with contemporary flavors and presentation. While the bakery retains classic staples such as bánh bao (steamed pork buns) and bánh flan (Vietnamese caramel custard), the chef’s creative twist on each item has earned rave reviews from food critics and locals alike.

• Bánh bao: The buns come in a variety of fillings—classic pork and kimchi, truffle-infused beef, and even a vegan jackfruit version—each wrapped in a delicate, airy dough that melts in your mouth. The buns are presented on miniature wooden trays that mimic the aesthetic of a fine‑dining set.

• Bánh flan: Nguyen’s take on this custard dessert uses whole‑milk caramel instead of the typical condensed milk, giving it a richer, creamier texture. The result is a silky custard with a caramel glaze that’s subtly sweet but never cloying.

• Cơm nấu: A new addition to the menu, these bite‑sized rice cakes are stuffed with sweet black bean paste and topped with toasted sesame seeds. The rice is fermented to a delicate, slightly sour flavor that pairs perfectly with a cup of Vietnamese iced coffee.

• Pâtisserie Fusion: The bakery’s pièce de résistance is a line of pastries that fuse Vietnamese and French influences—think mango macarons with a coconut ganache, or a sugar cake (chè) made into a delicate, melt‑in‑your‑mouth mousse topped with toasted coconut shavings.

The article emphasizes that each pastry is prepared on-site with an emphasis on fresh, locally sourced ingredients. Nguyen has partnered with nearby farmers and bakers to source flour, eggs, and dairy, ensuring that the pastries not only taste exceptional but also support the community.

The Fine‑Dining Pedigree

What sets Berlu apart from other pastry shops is its pedigree—Linh Nguyen’s background in fine‑dining kitchens is evident in every detail of the bakery. She previously worked at several Michelin‑starred restaurants in Paris and the United Kingdom, where she learned how to balance flavor, texture, and visual appeal. These skills are reflected in the bakery’s meticulous plating, precise measurements, and dedication to presentation.

According to the Oregonian article, Nguyen’s first years in Portland were spent as a pastry chef at the acclaimed restaurant Oregon House, where she helped create the menu that earned the restaurant a national food award. Her experience there taught her how to “translate complex flavors into approachable, elegant dishes,” a philosophy she carries into every pastry she makes at Berlu.

The bakery’s interior design also reflects this fine‑dining sensibility. Each pastry display case is arranged in a way that mimics a wine cellar’s careful organization, and the bakery’s staff—wearing crisp aprons and minimalistic hats—serve pastries with the same level of attentiveness as a sommelier with a wine list.

Community Reception and Future Ambitions

Since its opening in early 2025, Berlu Bakery has quickly become a hotspot for food bloggers and Instagrammers. The article quotes a local food critic who said that the bakery “has redefined what a Vietnamese bakery can be in Portland, bringing a level of craftsmanship and creativity that is rare in the city’s dessert scene.” Patrons note that the pastries are not only visually stunning but also “mindfully balanced”—the sweet elements are tempered by savory notes, echoing the culinary heritage of Vietnam.

In addition to its physical storefront, Berlu Bakery has an online shop where customers can order pre‑made pastries for pickup or delivery. The online platform features a “Pastry of the Week” subscription, allowing subscribers to receive a rotating selection of seasonal Vietnamese pastries delivered to their doorstep each month.

Looking ahead, Nguyen hints at expanding her menu to include a range of Vietnamese street foods, such as pho‑infused macarons and banh mi cupcakes. She also plans to open a second location in Southeast Portland by the end of next year, according to the article’s last paragraph, which cites a quote from Nguyen: “We’re excited to bring this fine‑dining Vietnamese experience to more neighborhoods.”

Why Berlu Bakery Is Worth a Visit

• Authentic Vietnamese flavors with a modern twist: Nguyen’s background ensures that each pastry delivers an authentic taste profile while offering an innovative culinary experience.

• Fine‑dining presentation: The careful plating and meticulous design of the bakery’s interior give customers the feeling of stepping into a boutique pastry house rather than a typical street bakery.

• Community focus: With locally sourced ingredients and a supportive approach to regional farmers, Berlu Bakery aligns with Portland’s values of sustainability and localism.

• Versatility: Whether you’re looking for a quick dessert on the go or a meticulously crafted pastry to impress at a dinner party, Berlu offers something for every occasion.

In summary, Berlu Bakery is more than a pastry shop; it’s a culinary laboratory where Vietnamese tradition meets European technique. Linh Nguyen’s fine‑dining pedigree is reflected in every detail—from ingredient selection to presentation—and the result is a bakery that has captured the attention of food lovers throughout Portland and beyond. For anyone interested in exploring the next frontier of dessert innovation, Berlu Bakery is a must‑visit destination.