Guide to quirky Turkmenistan: White cars, marble cities and more

Published in Humor and Quirks on Wednesday, August 27th 2025 at 21:25 GMT by The New Zealand Herald
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A Quirky Journey to the Least‑Visited Country on Earth – Turkmenistan

When the New Zealand Herald’s travel writers set out to uncover the hidden charms of the world’s least‑visited country, they found a land that feels like stepping into another era. Turkmenistan – a former Soviet republic on the eastern edge of the Caspian Sea – is a place of stark deserts, marble‑clad monuments and an almost other‑worldly sense of secrecy. The article, written by the Herald’s resident globetrotter, takes readers from the glittering capital of Ashgabat to the smoke‑smoked crater that locals call the “Door to Hell” and back again, giving us a snapshot of a country that, despite its forbidding reputation, has a surprisingly warm, if bewilderingly formal, welcome.

Arriving in Ashgabat: Marble, Mosques, and Mystique

The journey began at Turkmenistan’s international airport, where the traveler was met by a local guide who explained that Turkmenistan’s visa policy is still restrictive for many foreign visitors. After the brief bureaucratic dance, they were whisked into the capital, Ashgabat – a city that has earned a reputation as one of the most ostentatiously beautiful and bizarre capitals in the world.

Ashgabat’s skyline is a gleaming sea of white marble. Every street corner is punctuated by ornate mosques and grand monuments, the most iconic being the “Monument of the Republic” with its giant lion sculpture. The guide explained that the city was rebuilt in a distinctive “Turkmenist" style in the 1990s, with marble cladding chosen to showcase national pride and architectural grandeur.

Despite its pomp, the city is remarkably orderly. The streets are spotless, the public transport efficient, and the air crisp. The writer spent an afternoon wandering the Grand Bazaar, tasting local delicacies such as “kurt” (dried yogurt) and “goggo,” a sweet rolled pastry. Local tea, always served in small copper cups, became a ritual of conversation and camaraderie.

Beyond the Capital: The Silk Road Legacy of Merv

The next stop was the ancient city of Merv, a UNESCO World Heritage Site that once served as the capital of the Khwarezmian Empire and a bustling hub on the Silk Road. Here the traveler walked through the remnants of a once‑grand city: the “Darvaza” caravanserai, the 12th‑century minaret, and the great Mosque of Khwarazm.

The guide explained that the site was deliberately preserved during the Soviet era and that the city’s ruins give a tangible sense of the past. A photo‑journalist’s lens captured the juxtaposition of the old stone walls against the vast, sun‑baked desert. The writer described how, on a quiet afternoon, the wind carried a faint scent of frankincense from a nearby oasis – a reminder of the trade routes that once crossed this land.

The “Door to Hell”: A Burning Mystery in the Karakum Desert

No visit to Turkmenistan would be complete without a detour to the Karakum Desert, home to the infamous Darvaza gas crater. Legend has it that a Soviet geologist accidentally burst a gas well in 1971, which subsequently caught fire. The flame has burned continuously for decades, creating a “door” to the abyss that has fascinated scientists and tourists alike.

The traveler’s guide offered a fascinating explanation: the crater is about 70 m in diameter, with a constant blue flame that glows against the twilight sky. The guide warned that the site is only accessible with a special permit, and the group took a guided tour in a 4×4 vehicle, with the driver stopping at a viewing point to observe the eerie, steady blaze. The writer noted the surreal feeling of watching a flame that has burned for half a century, a living monument to a mistake that became a tourist attraction.

A Culture of Contrasts: Traditional Crafts and Modern Constraints

Throughout the journey, the writer encountered a people who are at once proud, reserved, and deeply connected to their traditions. In Ashgabat, a local weaver explained the intricate patterns of Turkmen carpets, each design carrying symbolic meaning. In the countryside, shepherds demonstrated the ancient art of horse‑breeding, a practice that dates back millennia.

Yet the writer also observed the stark realities of living in a country with limited media freedom and heavy state control. While the capital is designed to impress, the surrounding countryside often lacks basic infrastructure, and the writer found that many locals were unaware of global events beyond what is officially broadcast. The guide offered insights into the political atmosphere, explaining that Turkmenistan remains a single‑party state under the long‑time rule of President Gurbanguly Berdimuhamedow.

The Final Farewell: A Country That Is Both Shocking and Touching

As the journey drew to a close, the writer reflected on the paradox of Turkmenistan. The country is literally “the least visited” because of its closed borders, yet it offers a richness that surprises those willing to step beyond the tourist trail. From the marble façades of Ashgabat to the ghostly flames of Darvaza, from the ancient streets of Merv to the serene desert camps, Turkmenistan’s contradictions create a deeply compelling narrative.

The article concludes with a note of hope for the future: a new wave of open‑border policies could invite more travelers to experience Turkmenistan’s unique blend of tradition and modernity. Until then, the traveler’s account serves as a passport into a world that few have seen, a world that continues to keep its secrets while offering glimpses of its extraordinary soul.

Read the Full The New Zealand Herald Article at:
[ https://www.nzherald.co.nz/travel/travel-news/a-quirky-trip-to-the-least-visited-country-in-the-world-turkmenistan/NV6YRHPS3BGEPI5M5XHECD6KAA/ ]

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