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Seven wines to enjoy in the dog days of August

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  From a bells-and-whistles red Bordeaux to a savoury sangiovese blend, here are seven wines to savour this month

Exploring the Best of Ontario and BC Wines: A Comprehensive Review


In the ever-evolving landscape of Canadian winemaking, the provinces of Ontario and British Columbia continue to shine as powerhouses of innovation and quality. Drawing from the unique terroirs of Niagara's escarpment soils and the sun-drenched valleys of the Okanagan, winemakers in these regions are producing bottles that rival international benchmarks. This review delves into a selection of standout wines from both areas, highlighting their flavors, craftsmanship, and value. Whether you're a seasoned oenophile or a casual enthusiast, these recommendations showcase the diversity and excellence of Canadian viticulture, emphasizing sustainable practices and bold experimentation.

Starting with Ontario, the focus often lands on the Niagara Peninsula, where cool-climate grapes like Riesling and Chardonnay thrive. One exemplary pick is the Cave Spring Vineyard Riesling from the Beamsville Bench. This wine embodies the region's minerality, offering a crisp, vibrant profile with notes of green apple, lime zest, and a subtle petrol undertone that Riesling lovers adore. Clocking in at around $18, it's an accessible entry point for those exploring Ontario whites. The winery's commitment to organic farming adds an eco-friendly appeal, ensuring that each sip reflects the purity of the land. Pair it with fresh seafood or spicy Asian dishes to let its acidity cut through richer flavors.

Moving to reds, Ontario's Cabernet Franc scene is heating up, with the Hidden Bench Estate Winery Cabernet Franc standing out. Sourced from low-yield vines, this medium-bodied red delivers layers of dark cherry, raspberry, and a hint of herbaceous green pepper, balanced by fine tannins and a touch of oak from barrel aging. Priced at about $35, it's a testament to how Ontario's winemakers are mastering Bordeaux-style varietals in a cooler climate. The wine's elegance makes it ideal for grilled meats or aged cheeses, and its aging potential suggests cellaring for a few years to unlock more complexity.

Not to be overlooked are Ontario's sparkling wines, which are gaining global recognition. The Henry of Pelham Cuvée Catharine Brut, a traditional method sparkler, blends Chardonnay and Pinot Noir for a bubbly that's toasty, with brioche aromas and lively bubbles carrying flavors of citrus and almond. At $30, it's a steal compared to Champagne equivalents, perfect for celebrations or as an aperitif. This wine underscores Ontario's prowess in effervescence, drawing on the same chalky soils that define premium fizz from France.

Shifting westward to British Columbia, the Okanagan Valley's warmer climate fosters riper fruit expressions, particularly in Syrah and Pinot Noir. A highlight is the Laughing Stock Vineyards Portfolio, a Bordeaux-inspired blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Petit Verdot. This full-bodied red bursts with blackcurrant, plum, and vanilla spice, supported by velvety tannins and a long, satisfying finish. Retailing for around $50, it's a flagship for BC's red wine ambitions, reflecting meticulous vineyard management and innovative blending. Enjoy it with hearty stews or roasted lamb to complement its robust structure.

For white wine aficionados, BC's Quails' Gate Chenin Blanc is a revelation. Hailing from old vines in the southern Okanagan, it presents tropical fruit notes like pineapple and guava, underpinned by a zesty acidity and a hint of honeyed richness. At $25, it's versatile for pairing with poultry or vegetarian fare, and its off-dry style appeals to those who enjoy a touch of sweetness without overwhelming the palate. This varietal, less common in Canada, showcases BC's willingness to experiment beyond the usual suspects.

Pinot Noir enthusiasts will appreciate the Meyer Family Vineyards McLean Creek Road Pinot Noir from the Naramata Bench. This elegant red features red berry aromas, silky textures, and earthy undertones, with subtle oak integration that enhances rather than dominates. Priced at $40, it's a prime example of how BC's microclimates produce Pinots with Burgundian finesse but a distinctly New World vibrancy. Ideal for salmon or mushroom-based dishes, it highlights the region's volcanic soils and cooling lake influences.

Beyond individual bottles, this selection reveals broader trends in Canadian wine. Ontario's emphasis on cool-climate precision contrasts beautifully with BC's bolder, fruit-forward styles, yet both regions prioritize sustainability. Many of these wineries, like Cave Spring and Quails' Gate, employ biodynamic practices, reducing chemical inputs and enhancing biodiversity. The rise of hybrid grapes and climate-resilient varietals also points to adaptation amid changing weather patterns, ensuring the industry's longevity.

In terms of value, these wines punch above their weight. Ontario's offerings often provide exceptional quality at budget-friendly prices, thanks to local production and distribution efficiencies. BC wines, while sometimes pricier due to smaller yields and higher land costs, deliver premium experiences that justify the investment. For consumers, exploring these through virtual tastings or winery visits can deepen appreciation—many estates offer immersive experiences that connect the glass to the grape.

Pairing suggestions extend the enjoyment: Ontario's Rieslings excel with light appetizers, while BC's Syrahs complement barbecue seasons. As fall approaches, these wines transition seamlessly from summer patios to cozy dinners, embodying the seasonal rhythm of Canadian life.

Ultimately, these Ontario and BC wines represent more than just beverages; they're stories of place, passion, and perseverance. From the limestone-laden vineyards of Niagara to the sagebrush-dotted hills of the Okanagan, each bottle captures the essence of its origin. As global interest in Canadian wine grows—evidenced by awards at international competitions—these regions are poised for even greater acclaim. Whether stocking your cellar or seeking a weeknight pour, these recommendations invite discovery and delight, proving that world-class wine is flourishing right here at home.

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Read the Full The Globe and Mail Article at:
[ https://www.theglobeandmail.com/life/food-and-wine/article-wine-review-ontario-bc-christopher-waters/ ]